Neil, Session 2, #1

[mikemeister_admin]

For this image, I adjusted mainly the red channel (RGB) to color correct based on the gray patches in the card. I just don't "get" the color clock readout, as it seems counter-intuitive.

[ggroess]

The color clock is a fast and pretty accurate method of color correcting. 
In mixed lighting you have to make compromises and the color clocks can help you out. 
If you want the greys to be close to each other in hue...you could alt-click on each grey and adjust the curves to make all of the greys "close" on the hue clocks.

You also can make use of the multiple neutrals that RGB allows you to set...

Greg

[mikemeister_admin]

Greg,

Could you do a step by step on how to set multiple neutrals in RGB?  I tried doing that with the boat photo in session 2 and wasn't having much success with it.

Thanks,


Howard

[ggroess]

Howard,

I know this will sound simple...but you just choose a spot you want to be neutral.  You may have to make some adjustments to the placement of the neutral pin...
I would suggest trying it on this image...

Take the far left grey square and the middle one...start by setting the hue clocks with an Alt-click...then set the first neutral you can choose either one...  Each Pin you create has properties you can modify, right click on it and you will see what I mean. 

If setting a second neutral really throws the lighting or color off try moving it around..the sample point may have hit a area of the image with odd pixel values..by default CM sets the sample to be 5X5 ...that means it is looking at 25 pixels for the average value.  Sometimes you want it to be smaller especially in a noisey image.

If, like in this image the the overall color shift is red you can adjust the red a little but watch the other hue clock and see if another color starts to deviate when you adjust the red...usually it will be blue that moves...not always..work slowly by moving the neutral as needed and adjusting the curves to try to make the hue clocks match up.  In this image you have mixed lighting so you are going to have to accept a slight difference in the two samples. 

Another problem you will have is the sample points may be very close together.  Enlarge the CM window to cover more than half of the screen and it will give you more room to work.

Give it a shot and let me know what other questions I can confuse you on...
Greg

[mikemeister_admin]

I set 3 neutral points on this one; the far left block on the row of greyscale patches, the right-center one, and the white plastic object that the skull is sitting on.  There is now a green caste to the skull which I just haven't had the time to try working on.

[mikemeister_admin]

I understand the concept of the color clock from the Curevemeister manual and instructions. What I don't get is what it is reporting in terms of color balance, as it seems to be very different than what Photoshop reports (and I do understand that pretty well). For example, in the brightest gray square of this image, the color clock reports the red channel % well below the blue and green, just the opposite of Photoshop (reporting in absolute numbers or Magenta in CMYK)! I'm a "by the numbers" kinda guy, and this discrepancy has me quite puzzled.

[ggroess]

nothing wrong with by the numbers...I sometimes go there when I have a problem....
ok...now we get to it ...you can choose the setting the clock reports back to you...in the config menus.

Click on the wrench...see attached print screen

This should help with the output matching...
Greg

[mikemeister_admin]

nothing wrong with by the numbers...I sometimes go there when I have a problem....
ok...now we get to it ...you can choose the setting the clock reports back to you...in the config menus.

Click on the wrench...see attached print screen

This should help with the output matching...

Greg

Thanks for the tip, Greg. I'll try this on the session 4 materials.

Neil