Hi
More questions I'm afraid
I usually correct in photoshop and curvemeister and save 2 copies, one psd and one jpeg
they are stored in different files on the same computer and used for different things
I noticed today that they look very different on the same screen
I save from photoshop - I convert to RGB in photoshop (flattening all layers) before saving
I have attached a screen shot to demonstrate
can anyone tell me why they look so different
are they likely to print differently
Julie
help with color
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imported_julie
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imported_ganna
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imported_julie
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Hi
sorry I took so long to acknowledge your answer.
I have been having computer problems.
are you using the same program to look at both, or are you looking ie. in Photoshop for psd and windows viewer for jpg.
Yes that looks like what is happening.
Is this likely to affect he printing as I usually print form the JPEGS?
they are both sRGB. I just figured out how to check
Julie
sorry I took so long to acknowledge your answer.
I have been having computer problems.
are you using the same program to look at both, or are you looking ie. in Photoshop for psd and windows viewer for jpg.
Yes that looks like what is happening.
Is this likely to affect he printing as I usually print form the JPEGS?
they are both sRGB. I just figured out how to check
Julie
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imported_ganna
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- Joined: Tue Nov 07, 2006 11:41 am
Julie and everyone else,
I realize that my answer while tongue in cheek did not really help anyone; therefore I am going to expand my answer a bit.
When comparing outputs you need to eliminate as many variables as possible. If you are wondering about the file data, you have to open the files in the same software. Photoshop will allow you to open multiple images and display them as tiles frames on the screen. When you have a question about the output for print you have to make sure the screen and printer settings are translated correctly by Photoshop and or your printer.
My reference to week 5 is related to the CM 201 class of which Julie is a beta reader. As a small preview everyone, week 5 will be dealing with outputs. from printing to display and resolution.
Greg
I realize that my answer while tongue in cheek did not really help anyone; therefore I am going to expand my answer a bit.
When comparing outputs you need to eliminate as many variables as possible. If you are wondering about the file data, you have to open the files in the same software. Photoshop will allow you to open multiple images and display them as tiles frames on the screen. When you have a question about the output for print you have to make sure the screen and printer settings are translated correctly by Photoshop and or your printer.
My reference to week 5 is related to the CM 201 class of which Julie is a beta reader. As a small preview everyone, week 5 will be dealing with outputs. from printing to display and resolution.
Greg
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imported_ganna
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- Joined: Tue Nov 07, 2006 11:41 am
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imported_ganna
- Posts: 460
- Joined: Tue Nov 07, 2006 11:41 am
I used to try to shoot a gray card...I really did... but overall I have had better results using an eye1 to calibrate my monitor. I do that 2 X per month. The changes are usually small but I am always surprised how much it actually does change. I shoot RAW and process them through ACR to sRGB (this is the file type my printer wants me to send to them for my portraiture work).
I then profile with my printer (commercial) 2X per year. They send me a calibrated file and I adjust my system to make the best print possible from them. When I am satisfied with the results back to me, I then re-set my eye1 settings so that I am close.
My process goes a little something like this. I correct the image to my monitor using CM for color and then send it out to them. They print one copy as is and one copy corrected to their standard. The corrected version shows me the numeric differences for color and density. I make some adjustments to the monitor profile so my corrections fall into their standard and re-send the print. I really try for density more than color correctness. I can be off by 2-4 points in color and still be acceptable. If I am off in density by more than 3 points I re-adjust and re-print.
That's as far as I go.
I have learned over the years that I can easily get caught up in chasing my tail in a slow death spiral trying to get it "perfect". I have to remind myself how much of the output process is out of my control once I FTP the files out...I usually stop the spiral after a week or two.
It comes up about 1 or twice a year.
Greg
I then profile with my printer (commercial) 2X per year. They send me a calibrated file and I adjust my system to make the best print possible from them. When I am satisfied with the results back to me, I then re-set my eye1 settings so that I am close.
My process goes a little something like this. I correct the image to my monitor using CM for color and then send it out to them. They print one copy as is and one copy corrected to their standard. The corrected version shows me the numeric differences for color and density. I make some adjustments to the monitor profile so my corrections fall into their standard and re-send the print. I really try for density more than color correctness. I can be off by 2-4 points in color and still be acceptable. If I am off in density by more than 3 points I re-adjust and re-print.
That's as far as I go.
I have learned over the years that I can easily get caught up in chasing my tail in a slow death spiral trying to get it "perfect". I have to remind myself how much of the output process is out of my control once I FTP the files out...I usually stop the spiral after a week or two.
It comes up about 1 or twice a year.
Greg
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